Lindqvist, Rickard. (2016) International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, Vol. 9(2): 106-114
ABSTRACT
The prevalent utilisation of the grain line vertically in pattern cutting is arguably connected to the tailoring matrix, the theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position. As woven fabric generally is anisotropic, that is, rigid on the straight grain and flexible on the bias this prevalent theory lack of dynamic qualities in interaction with the moving body. Langer’s lines utilised in surgery denote the skin’s anisotropic qualities and is thus also a notation of the movements of the body. Through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models guided by Langer’s lines, this research explores and defines possible congruence between the shear forces of human skin and the anisotropic qualities of woven fabric, suggesting, through a number of garment prototypes, how the utilisation of fabric grain may shift across the body.